this may be a fool’s errand. i don’t know if it’ll ever be as good as i remembered.
I’ll admit it. I’ve never made macaroni and cheese that wasn’t from a box full of pasta and powder. I didn’t think I could make it as good my Aunt Lorna’s, so why try? I’ve been thinking about her mac and cheese since she didn’t make it at the last family gathering. And don’t think I was the only person to ask or be disappointed.
There was another contender for the but I remember it was so good way back when prize. Let’s call it the Uncle Sam factor. That 5lb block of orange processed goodness called Government Cheese. (♥:I’ll let you slide on the processed goodness nonsense)
I had a thing for Gov’t cheese. It was like my vacation fling. I couldn’t get it at home. Our only time together was during summers spent with family outside of Chicago. I was so in love that I flew home one year with block in my carry-on. For real.
It had the bite of a great sharp cheddar and melted like a good american should. It had more body than that other block of cheese that Mommy would never buy. You had to be careful, though, and not slice GC too thick or it wouldn’t melt evenly in a grilled cheese or would overwhelm the bread and mayo of a regular cheese sandwich. Oh, how I get a little tingly thinking about it.
So, I have it stuck in my head that I want to make some really good Mac & Cheese. I decided to start with a more southern trad recipe. Hello, Miss Edna Lewis.
The making. This is a work-in-progress all-about-the-process exercise. I’m not including the recipe. It’s not there yet.
I used a few different recipes for ideas about flavor, texture and cooking method. Mostly Miss Edna Lewis’ and Scott Peacock’s with a hint of Martha and Smitten Kitchen’s Ode To Martha.
I substituted and discarded a lot actually. The only ingredients to stay from the original were the sour cream, salt & peppers and flour. I also followed the instructions to cube half of the cheese and grate the other. And the recipe called for using a custard. That was it, really. So I would probably say I used their guidelines.
Martha’s take allowed me to feel comfortable not using the Worcestershire and mustard powder. I’m on a buttermilk kick so that went in. I’ve been oddly fascinated by evaporated milk since Thanksgiving. So, I used that instead of the half and half and heavy cream that Miss Edna called for. A little Louisiana hot sauce found its way out of the fridge and into my hand to add a vinegary kick along with the heat of the black and cayenne peppers.
It was relatively quick and easy to put it all together. It baked in 30 and rested for 15 or so before I cut into it.
The tasting. It was okay. It wasn’t bad, actually. There was this hot, mellow, sour flavor that I was really digging. I would have added a bit more cheddar but I liked the mix of cheddar, Gruyère, and hint of pepper jack.
Ultimately, I didn’t like the egg-y texture. I’ve never liked my M&C that way. I didn’t like the way the cheese melted, either. Cubing it left pockets of cheddar all over the place. Eh, wasn’t feeling it. I, also, got cute and used penne. Ummm. Right, I know. Elbow, please. Thx.
Overall, I like knowing right off the bat what didn’t work for me. It’s not like I’ve thrown any away. It’ almost gone actually. I just didn’t do a little dance. Or get down. Or put my foot in anything on this try.
What’s next. No more eggs. I know that. There’s something else it’s asking for in the balance of flavors as well. And instead of guessing what’s in Aunt Lorna’s Lawd Help Me M&C, I just might have to ask. I want to try the white sauce version before I go the family route. Because honestly, if I can’t find my own way first and then I fail at hers, there will be no more Mac making in my future.
Nikki♥
